Skincare
Vitamin C serums, priced per gram: three formulas from $12 to $34
The Ordinary, TruSkin and Mad Hippie compared the only fair way — per gram, with the form of vitamin C and the supporting cast read from the label first.
Also on the desk
Foundation finishes, matched to skin type
The order you apply actives in matters less than the wait between them
LED masks: the wavelengths are published, the dose is the catch
Heat protectants, read by temperature: three sprays from $7 to $28
Blush placement, by face shape and finish
Retinol strengths on the label: what 0.01% to 1% actually means
New here?
Every number on this desk is traced to a published label. Start with the method.
How We AssessAcross the desk
On the shade table
This week's shades, side by side
Swatch positions approximate the brands' own shade charts; screens shift color.
The assessments
Vitamin C serums, priced per gram: three formulas from $12 to $34
The Ordinary, TruSkin and Mad Hippie compared the only fair way — per gram, with the form of vitamin C and the supporting cast read from the label first.
Foundation finishes, matched to skin type
NYX, L'Oréal and Estée Lauder long-wear foundations compared by finish and skin type — matte, satin and wear claims read from the label, not ranked by price.
Heat protectants, read by temperature: three sprays from $7 to $28
Matching the labeled temperature to your iron and your hair type is the only fair test — CHI, ghd and TRESemmé compared on mechanism, formula and price.
Retinol strengths on the label: what 0.01% to 1% actually means
How to read non-prescription retinol concentrations, why the ladder from 0.01% to 1% matters more than the price, and where retinyl palmitate fits.
Urea and lactic acid body lotions, priced per gram
Eucerin, AmLactin and Kerasal compared by active and per-gram cost — why the keratolytic you need depends on the body part, not the price tag.
Tubing and waterproof mascaras, decided by removal
Tubing mascaras hold lashes in polymer tubes and waterproof ones in wax films — two chemistries that demand different removals, and removal should pick yours.
Mineral or chemical sunscreen: matching the filter to your skin
Zinc oxide and chemical filters protect differently on paper and on skin. How to pick between them by white cast, wear and skin type, not marketing.
The guides
EDT, EDP, Parfum: what the concentration actually changes
Hair & Fragrance · 7 min
Body acids by family: PHA, lactic and salicylic for the right problem
Body & Bath · 7 min
Neck and chest care: what moves down from the face, what doesn't
Body & Bath · 6 min
Azelaic acid: prescription strength does the heavy lifting
Skincare · 7 min
Sulfate-free shampoo: what changes when you switch, and what doesn't
Hair & Fragrance · 6 min
Deodorant vs antiperspirant: two jobs, two labels
Body & Bath · 7 min
Undertone and the wrist test: what actually predicts a match
Makeup · 6 min
The price shelf
Under $15
Entry formulas, judged on actives per gram
$15 – $40
The middle shelf where most desks live
$40 and up
Premium pricing, examined honestly
Label of the week
Niacinamide
Why 2% keeps showing up in serums that charge for 10
The label percentage is the story: published work on barrier support centers on low single digits, and everything above that on a shelf tag is texture, not science. We read the INCI so the number on the front of the bottle can't do the talking.
Latest
All entries EDT, EDP, Parfum: what the concentration actually changes
Hair & Fragrance · Oct 4, 2026 · 7 min
Body acids by family: PHA, lactic and salicylic for the right problem
Body & Bath · Oct 2, 2026 · 7 min
Neck and chest care: what moves down from the face, what doesn't
Body & Bath · Oct 1, 2026 · 6 min
Azelaic acid: prescription strength does the heavy lifting
Skincare · Sep 30, 2026 · 7 min
Sulfate-free shampoo: what changes when you switch, and what doesn't
Hair & Fragrance · Sep 29, 2026 · 6 min
Deodorant vs antiperspirant: two jobs, two labels
Body & Bath · Sep 27, 2026 · 7 min
From the desk
“The number that decides a serum is printed on the label. The rest is presentation.”
How we work
We have no laboratory of our own. We read published ingredient lists, brand spec sheets and independent lab data where it exists — and we say which is which, on every page.
How We Assess